
.
On July 30, 2017, 1:30 pm, my three sisters and I rode the Bar Harbor Whale Watch Company's powerful catamaran past the Porcupine Islands into the Gulf Maine, ultimately traveling 50 miles on calm Atlantic waters in clear sunshine to Canada's Grand Manan Banks. Some folks spotted gray and harbor seals. as well as low-flying puffins on the way out. Two mola molas (ocean sun fish) lazed close on the right side of our vessel, pursing their funky lips almost into kisses for us. The first one appeared huge as a whale lolling just a couple of feet below the surface, the second showed up further out, smaller and standoffish. A surprisingly large school, maybe a hundred, of white striped dolphins skipped around us for miles. Who knew the lighter parts of their skin can turn green from the chlorophyll in their diet? All this information comes from our oceanographer/guide. She also spotted a Minke whale far out, but many of us on the starboard missed it. In fact we worried we might miss whales altogether as time to turn and head back to Frenchman's Bay approached 4:00 pm. That's when the amazing humpbacks turned up. Breathy six-foot spouts announced their presence then gave way to thin black slices of their backs cutting like knives through the blue ocean, first a lone animal, then a pair, then four, then three pair; our guide and the captain both later said there may have been eight whales within the length of a football field from us, and two pair came as close as 30 feet, maybe passing under the cat. NOAA restricts how close boats can approach the whales but can't say anything about whales approaching boats. Lucky us! We drifted among them, thrilled and delighted to watch them surface, spout, skim, dive repeatedly around us. We saw the green chlorophyll tint of their bellies, evidence that they were feeding well in these cold northern waters in preparation for a migration south to breed. We listened to their trills and calls, perhaps wishing we "spoke whalish." We smelled the halitosis of the copious breath held fifteen minutes or more per dive, and our guide advised us, "Never lick your lips if you get close enough to feel it." She did once and, much as she loves whales, still regrets that taste. We watched four flukes lift in line together for a dive so synchronized so parallel, that we might swear it was choreographed. Finally, just about time to leave, we saw one "clown of the sea" lift and wave its hind quarter, splashing and slapping. I neither exaggerate nor anthropomorphize, and as you sees above, I caught the picture; our guide said it's not an uncommon behavior, but I'd say it was fluky 😉
We were back at Bar Harbor by 6:30, and Captain Larry said it was one of the best whale watching days of this season. How fortunate we are! So go if you ever get a chance! Hope you enjoy, too.